[ Main Menu / Main FAQ Page / General Information ]

General Information


Questions

  1. What is this FAQ about?
  2. Should I trust the information on this page?
  3. What other legal stuff needs to be mentioned?
  4. What is the *BEST* first step in upgrading a processor?
  5. How can I contact the original computer or motherboard manufacturer?
  6. What other sources of information are there for upgrading my particular brand of computer?
  7. Where can I find more information on processors?
  8. What about dead links?
  1. What do all those processor names that I find in my manual mean?
  2. What is the difference between the Intel 486DX and 486SX?
  3. What is the difference between the Intel ODP and ODPR processors?
  4. Will a Pentium processor work in my 486 motherboard?
  5. What are the differences between a Socket 5 and Socket 7 motherboard?
  6. Will my computer require a BIOS upgrade to make it compatible with the new processor?
  7. Do I need to upgrade my BIOS to make it compatible with MMX, 3DNow!, or SSE?
  8. Are BIOS Upgrades Safe?
  9. What are the general procedures for installing a processor?
  10. Is a processor upgrade my best choice?
  11. Would a motherboard and processor upgrade be a better choice?
  12. Why does my AMD or Cyrix/IBM processor not run at its advertised speed?
  13. Is there any difference between the Cyrix and IBM versions of the same chip?
  14. I've heard of 'remarked' chips. How can I tell if mine is legitimate?
  15. What kind of heatsink should I get for my processor?
  16. What's Overclocking?
  17. Does my processor have bugs?
  18. Do I need to reinstall my operating system after upgrading the processor?
  19. What does Windows 95 identify my processor as?
  20. Is it possible to mix steppings in a dual processor environment?
  21. What's the difference between an Intel boxed processor and an OEM version?
  22. Can I run my K6-233 processor at standard voltage?
  23. How do I get a sticker for my PC?
  24. How can I future-proof my current PC so it will handle upcoming CPUs?

Answers

  1. What is this FAQ about?

  2. Should I trust the information on this page?

  3. What other legal stuff needs to be mentioned?

  4. What is the *BEST* first step in upgrading a processor?

  5. How can I contact the original computer or motherboard manufacturer?

  6. What other sources of information are there for upgrading my particular brand of computer?

  7. Where can I find more information on processors?
  8. What about dead links?

RTFM

(Translation: Read The Manual)

PLEASE read the manual before you begin any upgrade.
Thank You.


  1. What do all those processor names that I find in my manual mean?

  2. What is the difference between the Intel 486DX and 486SX?

  3. What is the difference between the Intel ODP and ODPR processors?

  4. Will a Pentium processor work in my 486 motherboard?

  5. What are the differences between a Socket 5 and Socket 7 motherboard?

  6. Will my computer require a BIOS upgrade to make it compatible with the new processor?

  7. Do I need to upgrade my BIOS to make it compatible with MMX, 3DNow!, or SSE?

  8. Are BIOS upgrades safe?

  9. What are the general procedures for installing a processor?
    1. Read the manual. Believe me, it'll save you time.
    2. Back up your important data. Always a good thing to do.
    3. Write down all your BIOS settings. For how to enter the computer's BIOS, see The PC Guide's BIOS Setup page.
    4. Turn down all the BIOS settings to their normal un-tweaked mode (reset everything to its default mode).
    5. Turn off the machine, unplug it from the wall socket, and remove the cover.

      • Side Note: Many people turn off the computer, but leave it plugged into the wall socket so that any static discharge from their bodies will be dissipated into the wire. Personally, I don't believe in leaving electronic components plugged in while I'm working on them. Call me selfish, but I think it's easier to replace a motherboard than it is to replace me. This is particularly important when working on an ATX system since the ATX power supply is always delivering some power to the motherboard. A static wrist strap that plugs into the wall socket will protect both me and the computer. See The PC Guide's Safety Warnings for a few more tips.

    6. Properly ground yourself (preferrably with a wrist strap). Touch the computer case to even out any charge between you and the metal enclosure. Handle all components by their non-metallic edges. And never work on a computer while standing on carpet.
    7. Remove any obstructions (wires, power supplies, etc.) that would inhibit access to the processor. Be sure to note where and how the wires and cables are attached. A pencil and paper would be very handy.
    8. Look for a '1', 'dot', or 'arrow' on the motherboard or the socket itself indicating where pin One is. Write this down.
    9. Unplug and remove any existing CPU fan. Some fans (such as those on a boxed Pentium) cannot be removed.
    10. Unclip any metal wires that may be holding the heatsink down on top of the existing CPU, and remove the heatsink. Some heatsinks are attached to the CPU with plastic clips on the sides. If so, leave the heatsink on.
    11. Lift the handle on the side of the CPU socket until it stands perfectly vertical. The handle may need to be pulled slightly away from the socket first. Lift the CPU out. No force will be required.

      • Side Note: The lever should be difficult to raise at first, and then get easier to move as it gets closer to vertical. If, on the other hand, raising the lever seems easy in the beginning, and becomes more difficult the closer to vertical it gets, STOP. It's very possible the CPU was originally inserted with the lever down, and so the pins on the CPU would be behind the contacts in the socket. Put the lever all the way back down, and then try to remove the chip.

      Some sockets, however, don't have levers. For these, a chip puller is recommended. They resemble a miniature garden rake with 14 or so teeth that slip under the CPU to gently raise the edges a little at a time. Be absolutely sure to place the chip puller between the CPU and the socket, and *NOT* between the socket and the motherboard. Slowly pry the chip up, alternating from all four sides. Don't 'flip' the chip out of the socket. This isn't tiddly winks!
    12. Place the old chip on a clean, flat surface away from your work area, making sure not to touch the pins.
    13. Inspect the new chip's pins to see if any are slightly out of alignment. They should all be perfectly in a row, and not leaning at all. A pair of tweezers can be used to gently urge the misbehaving pin in the right direction. Though I prefer using a 0.5mm mechanical pencil; it fits right over the CPU pins.
    14. If the new heatsink is attached to the CPU by plastic clips on the sides, then attach the heatsink before inserting the chip. Note that this is not the preferred way of attaching a heatsink. A metal spring clip that weaves through the heatsink fins is much better.
    15. Find the '1', 'dot', or 'arrow' on the new processor. The corner of the chip will be beveled. This indicates the location of pin One. Align pin One on the chip with pin One on the socket.
    16. Note that when replacing a 486 chip, the socket may have more rows of holes (4) than the CPU has rows of pins (3). This is ok. Just be sure that when the chip goes in, there is an extra row all the way around the chip. Of course, for every rule there has to be at least one exception: the NEC BusinessMate 486/25e, which requires that the processor be installed off-center.
    17. On a ZIF socket (the one with the lever), the chip will instantly sit into the hole. Absolutely no force is required. If it isn't going in, make sure the lever is perfectly vertical and all of the pins on the bottom are perfectly straight. Adjust any that are not. Don't force the thing down into the holes.
    18. On a LIF socket (no handle), some force will be required. But the chip should sit almost all the way down into the socket before any force is required.
    19. Check the chip from all sides. Is it seated? Is it level? If not, take it out and try again.
    20. On the ZIF socket, gently hold down the chip while lowering the lever until it (the lever) locks into place. Check the fit one more time from all sides.
    21. On the LIF (Low Insertion Force) socket, check that pin One on the motherboard and CPU are matched. You don't want to have to take this out and try again. Push on the chip. It should 'seat' somewhat. Don't lean into it. You're not giving CPR here, but the chip needs to go all the way in (roughly half a millimeter should separate the chip and the Socket).
    22. Check that all sides are as close to the socket as possible. It should be fully seated and level. It shouldn't move.
    23. Attach the heatsink. On every processor, heatsink compound is required. The stuff can be found at any Radio Shack (apologies to any international visitors) at extremely low prices. It's called heatsink compound or thermal grease or thermal compound. Don't get epoxy. That will seal the heatsink to the CPU. The grease goes on in a paper thin layer. Its purpose is to remove any small air gaps between the CPU and heatsink to maximize heat transfer. Note that many newer processors now come with a metal heat spreader on the top which doesn't cover the entire surface area of the chip. This is ok. Attach the heatsink to the metal plate with the grease. The grease should only be put on the surfaces that touch. For examples on how NOT to install heatsink compound, see Kadetys and Twisted Hardware.
    24. Weave the metal spring clip through the heatsink fins and attach the ends to the plastic nubs sticking out of the sides of the socket.
    25. Attach the CPU fan and plug it in.
    26. Now you need to set the motherboard jumpers (voltage, bus, multiplier, and processor type). I can't help you with this one. The voltage, multiplier, and bus speed requirements will be written on the top of the chip. The manual will also be helpful here.
    27. Check the jumpers once more. Many of the Cyrix 586 and 686 chips are Pentium rated, and their clock settings are not indicative of the actual speed they run at. Setting a 6x86MX-PR200 to run at 200MHz (66x3.0) would be a bad thing. Check the documentation carefully. The top of the chip will have the proper settings.
    28. Put any wires, cables, or devices which were removed back in. Be sure to align the cables correctly. Data cables have a striped edge on them indicating where pin One is. You did write these things down before you disassembled it, didn't you? Trust me, you don't want to turn your computer into a $2000 jigsaw puzzle. Write the settings down.
    29. BLACK TO BLACK is the title of this paragraph. Sorry for shouting. If you had to remove the power plugs going into the motherboard for some reason (you should avoid doing this if at all possible), they need to go back into their correct slots. And no, black to black is not an old AC/DC song. It refers to the way that the power plugs (P8 and P9) get plugged into an AT-style board. This doesn't apply to ATX-style motherboards since that power plug is all one piece, and can't be reversed. The black wires on the two plugs must be together in the middle (next to each other). The individual plugs go in only one way, but they will fit in each other's slot. Reversing them is about the only way you can physically damage the motherboard (short of dropping it out a two story window). Make absolutely sure you have this correct, or you'll fry the motherboard. If they don't seem to be going in, they can be angled into the slots. And for those poor, unlucky souls whose P8 and P9 plugs aren't side by side (my old AST is like this), you had better consult the manual. Read twice, plug once. You won't get a second shot at this. Remember: BLACK TO BLACK
    30. Once everything is back together correctly (you'll find out shortly if it's not), plug it back in and turn on the machine. I suppose a little prayer wouldn't hurt either.
    31. There should be one *beep*. Don't allow the computer to boot to your normal operating system. If you use Windows 95, use 'F8' to start off in a DOS session. I prefer to boot to DOS so I can run ctcm to check that the jumpers are set correctly.
    32. Note what the splash screen says about the processor (type and speed). If it isn't correct, write down what it said (not the nonsense about the BIOS or video card), and turn it off. Unplug, ground yourself once more, and re-check the jumpers. Make sure the CPU is fully seated. Note that a CD-ROM that jumps when playing back video or a sound card with bad sound may indicate a processor that is not fully seated. It is also often a good idea to get more up-to-date drivers for these items after a CPU swap.
    33. If it's still not right, start all over. It's no fun, but it's necessary. Are the jumpers correct? Manuals are sometimes wrong. Is the processor oriented correctly? Check The PC Guide's Boot Errors section for some hints if the computer is just dead. Also try The Dead PC by Computer Craft.

      • Side Note: If nothing happens when you first turn on the machine (no boot, no BIOS, no video, no beep, no nothing), turn off the machine immediately. Look to see if the processor is oriented properly. Pin One on the processor must line up with pin One on the socket. If the CPU is turned 90 degrees, it will quickly fry. And nobody likes fried CPU for dinner.

    34. If you can't get it, contact the system manufacturer. The CPU may not be compatible with your system, or you may need a BIOS upgrade.
    35. If, in the end, the BIOS splash screen refuses to give you the correct reading and you're sure the settings are correct (check the speed it's currently running at with ctcm), there may be nothing you can do. So long as it seems to run well, you might just have to live with an ignorant BIOS.
    36. And there you have it. Upgrading the processor in 300 easy steps. :-)



  10. Is a processor upgrade my best choice?

  11. Would a motherboard and processor upgrade be a better choice?

  12. Why does my AMD or Cyrix/IBM processor not run at its advertised speed?

  13. Is there any difference between the Cyrix and IBM versions of the same chip?

  14. I've heard of 'remarked' chips. How can I tell if mine is legitimate?

  15. What kind of heatsink should I get for my processor?

  16. What's Overclocking?

  17. Does my processor have bugs?

  18. Do I need to reinstall my operating system after upgrading the processor?

  19. What does Windows 95 identify my processor as?

  20. Is it possible to mix steppings in a dual processor environment?

  21. What's the difference between an Intel boxed processor and an OEM version?

  22. Can I run my K6-233 processor at standard voltage?

  23. How do I get a sticker for my PC?

  24. How can I future-proof my current PC so it will handle upcoming CPUs?

Current URL: http://www.pchardwarelinks.com/cpu_gen.htm
Designed by: Chris Hare
© 1997-Present by Chris Hare
Legal Stuff